2005 Chateau Haut-Monplaisir PrestigePurusing the local package store's selection this week I was looking for something deep, dark and brooding-hopefully with a good swift kick of tannins to boot. It was Saturday and I planned on swinging by the chop shop for a prime cut of red meat. What could pair better with a fresh New York steak than a California Petite Sirah, a Bordeaux bargain or a modestly priced Argentinian Malbec? With a bit of searching and an appetite to gamble I settled on a wine from the southern French appelation Cahors, a lesser known region that sits equidistant from the Atlantic Ocean and the Pyrennes Mountains. Once a competitor with neighboring Bordeaux, three major events virtually devastated the Cahors wine industry: (1) the onset of phylloxera in the late 1800s (2) the harsh frosts of 1956 which whiped out entire vineyards and (3) the financial success of Bordeaux which cast a blanket over its neighbor to the East.
Today, Cahors is comprised of roughly 15 % the amount of acreage that was planted in the late 19th century.
While these days a typical wine lover might say that 'Malbec' is synonymous with 'Argentina' (or maybe even Mendoza), some in the old world might claim otherwise. The history of the wine region of Cahors stretches back to Ancient Rome (50 BC), when vines were first planted and natives began crafting the "black wines of Lot." The inky, tannnic wines were at one time sent to the Russian Imerial court and used as sacramental wines for the Russian Orthodox Church.
Cahors, along with many French wine regions, is highly respected for its distinct terrior and tradition. The vineyards position, lying between the Atltanic, Pyrennes and Mediterrenean benefit from cool coastal breezes and an extended growing season as a result of Autumns with little to no rainfall. Likewise the wines often boast a strong minerality which is derived from chalky soils in the terraces of the Lot region, which were formed from erosion and ancient and modern alluvial deposits from the Lot River and its tributaries. Visually, the soil is emblazoned with a dark red, an indicator of soil rich in iron oxides, which were once mined in smelted in the region. Lastly, Cahors wines must be comprised of at least 70% Malbec (also called Cot, or known locally as Auxerrois) and are often blended with Merlot, to round out the mouthfeel, and Tannat.Chateau Haut-Monplaisir is located on the third and highest terrace of the Lot region, characterised by its altitude and freely draining soils. Cathy and Daniel Fournie began the estate in 1998 when they decided they would like to make their own wine from the vineyards long farmed (the fruit sold to negociants) by Cathy's father. With the help of Pascal Verhaege of the well knon Chateau du Cedre, the Fournie's were able to launch their dream.
Each year the chateau produces three cuvees: a straight Cahors fermented and aged in cement vats, Prestige which is aged in new and used oak and Pur Plaisir which is unorthodoxly crushed directly into 500 liter demi-muids; their side staves pre-removed and stood on end for fermentation in barrel.
The 2005 Prestige poured a deep inky purple, mezmerrizing to the eyes and beckoning one to ask: what saturated flavors lurk beneath? Dark berries, plums and blackberries efused from the nose with smoky notes lingering in the background. The biggest suprise might be the mouthfeel, which was rounder and softer than I expected. My best guess is twofold: the wine according to the importers website press release was privy to "carefull use of micro-oxegenation" and the protein (my delicious steak!) help tone down the tannins as well. Inside the mouth the taste effuses more dark berries, baking chocolate (cocao),spice and smoke which coupled with strong acidity gives off a subtle cranberry flavor. The tannins hold strong in the finish reminding you that this wine is bold and robust, with ageing potential, but most importantly it should be paired with your favorite cut of red meat. So head out to your neighborhood carniceria and pick up a bottle.
Aprovecha!
For more info check out:
Chateau Haut-Plaisir importer press release
French Travel and Leisure website
Plan a Cahors Wine Tour!
Wine Enthusiast website on French Wine
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